![]() ![]() Because of this fact, we are hooked in by a story of a skinny white kid from California transplanted to Hawaii, a tropical surfer’s paradise, where life is both glamourous and harsh. The author’s father lands the job of production manager for all those Hawaiian-based TV series that splashed across TV screens in the ’70s. This is a travelling surfer’s life story, told not through the prism of the desperate need to win heats in professional competition, but of a man wrestling with an activity that has him: “floating between two worlds, between society that had no rational content … there was a deep well of beauty and wonder in it … My enchantment would take me where it would”. Barbarian Days, A Surfing Life by William Finnegan. ![]() However, Finnegan has made a valiant attempt to argue our case. I suspect this is why William Finnegan’s Pulitzer Prize-winning surfing biography is called Barbarian Days. ![]() It’s in that moment when your partner catches you looking out the window at the toetoe plants for wind directions, and checking the tides at the most inconvenient times of the day. ![]() “Surfers are self-centered arseholes sometimes.” I’m sure the surf obsessed among us recognise this sentiment. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |